This blog post was originally written for I’mdividual, a London-based sustainable designer label. It has been edited and re-published with permission from the client. Follow I’mdividual here.
Around 21% of the world’s clothing is made from cotton, a plant fibre grown primarily in Asia and the United States. But while cotton is a natural and biodegradable material, the explosion in cotton production has created surprising effects on the planet and its ecosystems.
Take a look into sustainable fashion, and one of the first things you’ll come across when it comes to cotton is the word ‘organic’. But what does organic actually mean? Here, explore the real definition of organic cotton, its impact on the environment, and how to make it a key part of your sustainable fashion toolkit.
What is organic cotton?
Conventional cotton (aka non-organic cotton) uses 24% of the world’s insecticides and 11% of all pesticides. It is commonly grown using irrigated water and often using GMOs (genetically modified organisms). Organic cotton is grown without any of these harsh chemicals, mostly rain-fed and uses only natural fertilisers.
Organic agriculture certifications stipulate that organic cotton cannot be grown using genetically modified seeds, which can threaten biodiversity. There are even social criteria that ensure a fair wage is paid for decent work, and protect agricultural workers from child labour, forced labour and restricted labour rights.
GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) is one of the major bodies certifying organic textiles (other certifications include Oeko-Tek Standard 100 and the Soil Association). To qualify for GOTS, brands have to meet with the following standards (not a conclusive list):
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Genetically modified organisms (GMOs) should not be used in any capacity wherever possible.
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Farming should primarily rely on renewable resources and all by-products should be recycled to return nutrients to the land.
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Maintaining and enhancing soil fertility, and preventing soil erosion, should be a priority.
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Plants should be fed through the soil ecosystem and not through additional chemical fertilisers.
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All chemical inputs in the processing and manufacturing stage, including dyes, must meet strict requirements on toxicity and biodegradability.
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At least 90% of the fibre in a garment labelled with the GOTS logo must be organic (as opposed to just 70% of fibre content in clothing simply labelled as ‘organic’)
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Packaging material must not contain PVC, and any paper or cardboard packaging including swing tags must be recycled or FSC certified.
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The fibre cannot be produced under forced labour, child labour, excessive working hours or unsafe conditions.
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Workers must have freedom of association and collective bargaining, and must be paid a reasonable living wage.